Hot Topic (More than 10 Replies) Motor question (Read 4773 times)
basspro
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Motor question
01/02/09 at 05:04:30
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Okay here goes:

Have 250 HPDI that was just serviced at Nixons and brought back and charged all batteries. Batteries show full charge. On the battery charger a red light shows check connections.

I have checked to make sure all connections are tight, took motor cover off to see if all wires were plugged in as they should be and still have no power to anything.

What am I missing????

Russ
  
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Troy
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Re: Motor question
Reply #1 - 01/02/09 at 05:35:55
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in line fuse?
  
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Larry S.
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Re: Motor question
Reply #2 - 01/02/09 at 05:49:30
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Yup...thats what I would do is check all the inline and accessory fuses....maybe even look at the possibility of a crimped or corroded cable as the corrosion can get back under the wire coating.



if that does not help you should consider getting back into a ProCraft!!!
Grin Cheesy Grin Cheesy Grin Cheesy Grin Cheesy Grin Cheesy
  
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Sarge
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Re: Motor question
Reply #3 - 01/02/09 at 06:10:38
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Is there any kind of circuit breaker?
  
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Chris B.
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Re: Motor question
Reply #4 - 01/02/09 at 15:36:23
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Check battery terminals for corrosion, then give them a cleaning.
  

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basspro
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Re: Motor question
Reply #5 - 01/02/09 at 17:33:55
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Thanks guys I will check all these things and let you know. You would have thought that Nixons would have checked to make sure the boat was working?? Angry Angry Angry Angry

Russ
  
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BassAholic
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Re: Motor question
Reply #6 - 01/02/09 at 17:42:58
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Check the name on the boat if it says Skeeter then you have found the problem  Grin Grin Grin Grin
JK got to be a main fuse but I would not rule out a bad ignition switch.
  

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basspro
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Re: Motor question
Reply #7 - 01/02/09 at 18:01:34
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On the I class's there is a switch on the main panel that turns on the power. When you push the switch to on you here it "Click" normally but now there is no such clicking sound.

Russ
  
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Rwfaz
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Re: Motor question
Reply #8 - 01/02/09 at 18:09:37
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Faulty switch (duh) or maybe a missing/reversed connection to the switch?
  
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BassAholic
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Re: Motor question
Reply #9 - 01/02/09 at 18:57:11
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The click would be a relay No click = bad relay
  

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basspro
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Re: Motor question
Reply #10 - 01/02/09 at 19:36:25
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Okay here is what we did:

Hooked up jumper cables from troll batteries to main battery and then got the switch to click on like it is supposed to. Then took volt meter to main battery and it measured 12.5 V but while looking at the volt meter about every 10 seconds the voltage would drop.

Ideas???

Russ
  
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Chris B.
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Re: Motor question
Reply #11 - 01/02/09 at 20:14:24
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What kind of services did they do ??  Could this be something they messed up ?  If you had a water pump and impellor done, they should have at least ran it on the muffs, and no reason why It wouldn't turn over now.
  

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basspro
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Re: Motor question
Reply #12 - 01/02/09 at 20:25:39
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Chris,

They repaired a faulty livewell valve,locks on storage compartments, lower unit oil replaced, trailer light replace, and looked at intermittant motor running fowled issues at start up.

Russ
  
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BassAholic
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Re: Motor question
Reply #13 - 01/02/09 at 22:14:34
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You need to do a voltage drop test. 1 Remove negative battery cable connect the meter in line 2 set volt meter to milliamp scale 3. Set scale to 10amp scale to start should show 0.04 if lot higher don’t move to next scale Start pulling fuses till you find the draw.
At 200m scale  0.80 to 15.0 should be ok
You could have a bad cell in that battery also with this cold weather it might have killed it.
  

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basspro
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Re: Motor question
Reply #14 - 01/02/09 at 22:24:42
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Jon,

Inline 2? What does this mean?

Russ
  
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