The vaccum concept is interesting - a couple of questions:

1) the vaccum container would have to be large enough to contain the whole 100 foot cable and rubber camera shell right? (since the cable doesn't come off)

2) the rubber camera shell obviously has to have the lens removed in order for the moisture inside the camera shell to be removed, right?  So will moisture in the air immediately return after the vaccum chamber is opened in order to reinstall the parts? (shell lens, etc?)

3) within the rubber camera shell are the actual camera lens, small lights, electronic components, etc... will the vaccum cause any of these to pop or explode?

Cool! learn somthing new everyday!

Build a vacuum chamber with PVC pipe (large enough for the camera and cord) and then borrow a vacuum pump from a hvac guy..... I have built one when I dropped my cell phone in the water. I creates a 29" vacuum, and any moisture that is in the chamber will boil and be sucked out by the vacuum pump.....KInda a pain, but very effective.

If everything is truly glass in the camera - lens and cover, then 95% alcohol would work well. It sucks up water and evaporates quickly. But if you have any plastic, it will definitely blur.

Scopes and binoculars are filled with nitrogen to eliminate that problem. I'm not sure how you would get that in your camera though. You would have to due it in an oxygen purged environment. Anti fog is probably your simplest solution.

try water displacement formula #40, better known as WD40    an excess may cause a foggy view.  just joking, hope ya find a solution.

There are some anti-moisture / H2O products for getting moisture out of stuff that mechanics use while working on engines and such.  I used some when I drained and re-oiled my oil bath hubs on my boat trailer.  Can't remember the products name. But just a drop of the stuff would/should get rid to moisture before you reseal the camera.

mark

Rev,

Thats one reason I use a graph instead of a camera. If its not the fog its the battery problems, cable issues, etc.

Stick with the basics you will have more fun.

Russ

I can think of a few things that may help... at least worth a try.

-Try some of the anti-fogging products made for ski goggles on the inside of the glass casing.
-Toss one of those silica packs in there to absorb any moisture you may have missed.
-Store it open in a dry area for several days to make sure the inside is completely dry and then seal it up in a very dry area (Arizona?)  A safe with a dehumidifying rod may be a good place to dry it out.

Good luck - let me know if you find anything that works.

So here's the scoop... over the years, I have gathered 3 different cable lengths for my Aqua Vu - 50 foot, 75, and 100 foot.  With winter coming I want to use the 100 foot cable.  Problem is both the 75 and 100 foot cameras have condensation problems after several minutes of being lowered into the water (on the glass in front of the camera lens) .  Obviously everything gets blury and it is basically useless.  

Now, I can remove the metal band and open up the rubber camera casings and remove the glass to provide accesses to the electronics and camera lens (I have done it with the 75 footer when a wire needed re-soldering) and then reassemble with a new circular hose clamp around the glass and rubber casing, but I need somehow to make sure that moisture does not get trapped inside.  Obviously at the factory they inject a gas before closing it up.  And as much as my wife feels I have more gas than any man should, it's not the kind I need. (Sullivan, don't even go there!)

So what can I do to eliminate moisture from condensing inside?  I know that some products make use of desiccants(look like sugar packets) that absorb moisture, like silca gel beads, etc..  - does any one think that would work?  There is a little room inside for one or two packets.  Or does anyone know any other possibilities for eliminating condensation inside electronic components?