President's Line (continued)

(Continued from page 3)

guard fragile self-esteems from having to confess "I don't know!"
   On the other hand, traces of honesty DO exist among anglers - mainly because "Not Knowing" puts us in good company! It's not like the MAJORITY of bass anglers have all the answers and only a minority of us "don't get it." Conceivably we men dare to continue with the sport because we are comforted by the thought that very FEW anglers have

bass fishing figured out! As TV BASS Tournaments repeatedly demonstrate, even our fishing heroes get skunked! Why should we bow our heads in shame if Denny Brauer has to occasionally confess before millions "I don't know!"
   As the years tick by, I've discovered I don't really trust any so called "experts that don't use the "I don't know" phrase in their seminars or TV shows. "It works every time…" or "it never fails" just gives me the

willies! NOTHING ever works every time! A truly confident but honest angler says "It seems to work more times than it doesn't…" because even THEY have had days when ol'faithful just doesn't cut the mustard! The bass orator or writer who intermittently admits he "doesn't know", has my highest respect! It's a humbling sport, and "I don't know" echoes over the water more frequently than "Fish on!". At least that's my theory … but what do I know!

Winterizing Your Boat (continued)

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moisture. Don't be tempted to put in new spark plugs at this time. It's best to put new plugs in before you start the motor in the spring. New plugs now will just get fouled right away from the fogging.
   Next, spray the outside of the carburetor, linkage, and all other parts with a rust inhibiting lubricant. After you've finished, replace the cover.
   Now drain and inspect the lower unit oil. If it's cloudy, it has water in it. Left alone, it could freeze and crack the lower unit. Also check for metal filings, milky appearance, or black color with burnt odor. If old lube has any of those characteristics, see your dealer. If the oil appears ok, refill using quality lower unit oil.
Replace the water pump if it's two to three years old. Most water pumps are made of flexible rubber, and after a few years will get hard and set in the position of rotation, and will start to lose pressure. If it does, it could fail early into the next season if it's not replaced.
   Add grease to all grease fittings until it pushes out at the seams. This will allow the new grease to push out all the older grease, as well as any water that may have accumulated. Water and contaminated grease could cause internal corrosion. If you have remote steering, extend the steering linkage fully. Apply a light coat of the same grease to the exposed steering linkage using a dab of grease on a clean, lint free cloth.
On motors that have the speedometer pickup in the gearcase you must disconnect the speedometer hose at the upper

connection. With air pressure no more than 25psi (167 kPa) blow all water from the gearcase speedometer pickup system. Reconnect speedometer pickup after all water has been removed.
   If you have power tilt and trim, tilt the motor up and engage the tilt support. Remove the filler cap and check fluid level. If necessary, add enough power tilt/trim or power steering fluid to bring the fluid level even with the bottom of the fill cap hole when the unit is at full tilt.
   Wipe down the whole motor with soap and water, and dry with a clean dry cloth. Then apply a coat of wax using the same wax you used on the boat hull.
   Now put on your boat cover. Make sure it fits snugly over the sides, and tighten it securely. Be careful not to get it too tight, it could tear under the weight of snow and ice. Check that it doesn't sag in the middle. If it does, use a bucket, saw horse, or some type of support to hold up the center. This will keep any snow and ice from accumulating. If you have a cloth cover, I recommend covering it with an additional plastic tarp for extra protection.
   Now for the trailer. Jack up each wheel and check it front and back for signs of leaking grease. This may be a sign of bad seals. If so, they will need replaced. Next, spin the tire lightly. This will allow you to determine if the wheel bearings are binding. If the tire spins erratically, or not at all, they need to be replaced. Replacing wheel bearings and seals may take special tools, so I advise that you take it to a service center to have them replaced. If they seem ok, pull the wheel

assembly and clean and re-pack the bearings. Replace the wheel assembly and fill the bearing protectors with grease.
   Check the tires for proper air pressure. It's a good idea to block the trailer and pull the tires. Store them inside. This will eliminate flat spots from developing on the tires as well as protect them further from the weather. This is especially advisable if you plan on parking in grass or on bare earth. The proper way to jack up the trailer is to raise it by the axle keeping the trailer springs in a load position.
   Pull the covers off the taillights, and check for water. If there's moisture present, wipe it dry. Spray the bulb sockets with the same spray lubricant you used on the boat wiring or add a small amount of white grease. Clean the inside of the light cover with an all-purpose cleaner before replacing it.
   All of this may seem like a lot of work. But taking care of your boat properly should be taken as serious as your vehicle. These steps cover the basics plus a little more. As always, check your manuals and follow the manufacturers' recommendations. Following these steps may seem like a lot of work now, but you'll be glad you did in early spring when the first warm spell arrives. You'll be able to be the first one on the water and can concentrate on catching fish. After all, they call it fishing, but the goal is catching.